Turquoise has inspired the people of many different cultures for 6,000 years . . . as well as
nations over the entire course of mankind’s written history. Today Turquoise is more popular
than ever as modern designers incorporate Egyptian, Persian and Native American motifs with
modern silversmithing and production techniques.
Egyptians began mining Turquoise in the Sinai Peninsula around 5500 BC. When the tomb of
Queen Zer was unearthed in 1900, a Turquoise and Gold bracelet was found on her wrist, making
this one of the oldest pieces of jewelry on earth.
In Ancient times the Egyptians, Persians, Mongols and Tibetans all valued Turquoise highly.
Persians preferred sky blue Turquoise and the term "Persian Turquoise" is now used as a color
grade, not as a geographical indicator.
European interest in Turquoise can be dated to around 500 BC when the people of Siberia
began using the stone, but it did not make an impact on Western European fashion until the
late middle ages when trading with the Near and Middle East increased.
The name Turquoise is probably derived from the French "pierre turquois" meaning "Turkish
stone", this is because Western Europeans mistakenly thought the stone came from Turkey. In
actual fact it probably came from the Sinai Peninsula or Alimersai Mountain in Persia
(now Iran), which has been mined since 5,000 BC. In Persian, Turquoise is known as "Ferozah",
meaning victorious and it is the national gemstone of Iran to this day.
The first Millennium AD saw a big increase in the popularity of Turquoise with both the
Chinese and Native Americans becoming captivated by the blue stone. While the Chinese had
some mines in their empire, they imported most of their stones from Persians, Turks, Tibetans
and Mongols. In Mexico, the Aztecs began mining Turquoise between 900-1000 AD. The Anasazi
people mined Turquoise in what is now Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. The city of Chaco
Canyon became very wealthy based on the Turquoise trade, which was often exchanged for the
feathers of tropical birds. Turquoise from this area found its way around the trade routes
of the American continent and has been unearthed as far away as the great Mayan city of
Chichén Itzá in the Yucatán. By the 16th century, the cultures of the American Southwest
were using Turquoise as currency.
Today Turquoise is prominently associated with Native American culture particularly Zuni
bracelets, Navajo concha belts, squash blossom necklaces and thunderbird motifs. The Native
American Jewelry or "Indian style" jewelry with Turquoise mounted in or with silver is
actually relatively new. Some believe this style of Jewelry was unknown prior to about 1880,
when a white trader persuaded a Navajo craftsman to make Turquoise and silver jewelry using
coin silver. Prior to this time, the Native Americans had made solid Turquoise beads,
carvings, and inlaid mosaics.
Amazingly most of the silver and Turquoise jewelry, belt buckles and other ornaments sold
in the United States today are manufactured in Thailand and China as silversmithing is
significantly cheaper in those countries.
Sources
Turquoise is currently mined in Arizona and New Mexico, USA; Australia; Afghanistan; and
Iran, which produces the finest quality Turquoise.
Coloration
Turquoise is almost always opaque but rare, translucent stones are known to exist.
Folklore
It is believed that Turquoise helps one to start new projects; can warn the wearer of danger
or illness by changing color; and protects the wearer from falling - especially from horses.
Legend has it that some Native Americans believed that if Turquoise was affixed to a bow,
the arrows shot from it would always hit their mark. It is also believed to bring happiness
and good fortune to all.
The blue of Turquoise was thought to have powerful metaphysical properties by many ancient
cultures. Montezuma's treasure, now displayed in the British Museum, includes a fantastic
carved serpent covered by a mosaic of Turquoise. In ancient Mexico, Turquoise was reserved
for the gods, it could not be worn by mere mortals.
In Asia it was considered protection against the evil eye. Tibetans carved Turquoise into
ritual objects as well as wearing it in traditional jewelry. Ancient manuscripts from Persia,
India, Afghanstan, and Arabia report that the health of a person wearing Turquoise can be
assessed by variations in the color of the stone. Turquoise was also thought to promote
prosperity.
The book of Exodus contains an important reference to Turquoise. The Breastplate of the
Hebrew High Priest Aaron contained twelve stones set in four rows. Turquoise was the first
stone on the second row.
Evaluation
Turquoise from Iran is often said to be the best because it is sometimes a clear sky blue
with no green modifying color and no black veins running through it. Turquoise just as fine
is produced in Arizona and New Mexico. In general the bluer the blue, the more highly valued
it is. A clear even texture without mottling or veins is also preferred. However, some people
prefer Turquoise with veins, sometimes called spiderwebs, which set off the color.
Care and Cleaning
Turquoise is porous and should be kept away from chemicals. Clean it with warm soapy water
only.
Technical Characteristics
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Chemical Composition:
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Hydrous phosphate of
aluminum and copper - CuO 3Al2O3 2P2O5 9H2O
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Hardness:
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5 - 6
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Specific Gravity:
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2.6 - 2.8 (Average)
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Refractive Index (R.I.):
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1.61 1.65
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